Make the pickled red onion. Slice the red onion into thin rings. Bring the vinegar, water, sugar or honey and a pinch of salt briefly to the boil. Pour the hot pickling liquid over the onion and leave for at least 30 minutes. Season with extra sumac if you like.

Fire up The Bastard. Heat The Bastard to 180–200°C and set up for indirect cooking. Make sure you can also grill directly later for the bimi.

Roast the beets. Rub the beets with olive oil and smoked salt. Place indirectly on The Bastard, loosely wrapped in foil or in a dish. Roast until completely tender — allow 60 to 90 minutes depending on size. Leave to cool slightly, peel and cut into wedges.

Bastard tip: roast the beets low and slow over indirect heat. This makes them sweet and tender while the BBQ adds a gentle smokiness without burning the outside.

Season the soft cheese. While the beets are roasting, mix the soft cheese with olive oil, lemon zest, black pepper and a little smoked salt. Fold in finely chopped chives or tarragon if you like. Keep chilled until needed.

Toast the hazelnuts. Toast the hazelnuts in a pan or dish on The Bastard until they start to smell nutty and turn lightly golden. Leave to cool and chop roughly.

Smoke the peas or broad beans. Place the pods briefly on The Bastard over indirect heat with a light smoke. They don't need to cook through fully — the idea is warmth, a little bite and a subtle smoky flavour. Drizzle with olive oil and season with smoked salt.

Grill the bimi. Drizzle the bimi with olive oil and smoked salt. Grill directly over the coals until the stems are just tender and the tips are lightly charred.